DIY LED Upgrade for Lumicycle Lights – want to know how to do it ?

26 03 2008

When we started nightriding again this winter Rick and I were getting naffed off with our old Lumicycle lights not lasting more than 1 1/2hrs but didn’t want to spend a fortune replacing them and didn’t want to throw them away.  They weren’t broken just underpowered and old technology.  Step forward Biffer who very kindly shared some info he’d found on Singletrackworld about an LED DIY upgrade project.  We were very interested. 

Basically, you need to know how to solder, understand electronics and follow these instructions.  You purchase a £50 kit (each light) from  Cutter Electronics in Australia and away you go, be warned patience is needed and it is fiddly / very tight, but the results have been so impressive we feel compelled to share it with you incase anyone else fancies a go.  The following info is supplied without liability or responsibility for anything that may go wrong with you or your existing light unit/battery… happy with that then read on…

Instructions courtesy of Muddy@rser Biffer “Well first you need to dismantle your old unit. Remove the bulb, then unscrew the rubber cover on the switch and the locknut on the power connector. You should then be able to remove the entire wiring harness from the unit.

You will need to un-solder / remove the 2 wires from the power socket. The wiring with the switch and the bulb holder can now be discarded.  The LED board might need to be filed down slightly to enable it to fit inside the Lumi housing – just use a file or a Dremel type tool.

To connect everything up you need a new switch from Maplin (in Brighton) if you haven’t already purchased one – FH03D price £3. This looks identical to the Lumi one but works slightly differently.  You will need some wire, fairly thin stuff will do as there is very little current being drawn. Room will be tight in the Lumi housing so don’t use pieces of wire too long. About 4 -5 cm is enough.

You will need to check the polarity of the power socket by connecting it to the battery and use a volt meter to determine + ive and – ive.

Then wire from the – ive side of the power socket to the connector on the bFlex labelled IN – then repeat from the + ive side of the connector to the bFlex hole labelled IN +.

The new switch will have 3 connectors. Place a wire from the top connector to the bottom connector but not touching the middle connector. Next connect from either of the outside connectors you have just wired to the bFlex hole marked SWA. Then wire from the middle connector of the switch to the bFlex hole marked SWB.

still with me ???????????????      Right nearly there…………….

Now you need to wire from the bFlex LED + to the board with the LEDs mounted on it. Wire to the + side of the LED connectors – this might not be obvious but look closely. Then wire from the LED – to the -ive side of the LED board.

You have now finished the wiring !!!!!!

Assemble the wiring back into the housing. Place power socket in the housing and replace lock-ring, feed switch into place and replace rubber boot to hold it in place. push the bFlex controller in followed by the LED board (coating the edges with generous amount of heat paste) and optic. Replace outer bezel.
Connect battery and then program the unit using the intructions from the Cutter site.”

You will need to purchase a BFlex UIB2 Bike Specific LED Kit comprising an optic lens, 3 x superbright LED’s mounted on a disc and a BFlex driver circuit board.  Heat sinks can be purchased from Cutter too (double check they fit your light unit) or you can configure one out of copper pipe like Rick did.  You’ll also need heat transfer paste (Maplins), some soldering skills and lots of patience !! 

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut757

We’d love to know how you get on if take on the challenge and good luck !

Lisa

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