INTRODUCTION
This is the blog of the coast-to-coast trip my brother and I (Donna) mountain-biked in September 2019 in celebration of his imminent fiftieth birthday. We roughly followed Tim Woodcock’s route from St Bees in Cumbria to Robin Hoods Bay in North Yorkshire, averaging about 30 miles a day. The blog was written as and when I got the chance each day and records our highs and lows along the way.
We chose to bike-pack to be self-sufficient on our journey. This meant that we had dry bags full of our bivvy, sleeping and cooking gear attached to the front and rear of ours bikes which gave us ultimate flexibility. We did not book any accommodation before setting off, safe in the knowledge that we could camp whenever and wherever we liked. This did however make for a really tough time in the Lake District. Woodcock’s Cumbrian section would have been much easier without the large dry bags making the bikes very heavy and unwieldy, and to be fair on Tim, he does lay it out as a trek to be done using youth hostels, not bike-packing.
It did however get easier after the Lakes and I wonder why in Woodcock’s guide notes he suggests several very long days at the beginning. I found the going significantly easier after Shap and could have happily done 45+ mile days after that point as the hills got smaller and my fitness improved.
Notwithstanding these critiques, there is no better way to piece together the majestic Northern English countryside than this coast-to-coast expedition whether on bicycle or foot. No matter what the weather throws at you, the scenery, nature and people along the way make it all worthwhile, as I hope this blog lays testament.
PRE-TRIP
23:00 – THURSDAY 19th – MUM & DAD’s HOUSE, MARSDEN, W YORKS
Arrived at Mum and Dad’s tired and excited. Looking forward to a good night’s sleep before the week’s exploits. Anxious that I might have forgotten something. We would be bike-packing with all our gear for bivvying. Would the loaded bike be manageable? Reminding myself to focus on the moment: enjoy the highs and solve the problems when they arise.
DAY ONE – 200 MILES TO GO
21:00 – FRIDAY 20th – BLACK SAIL YOUTH HOSTEL, ENNERDALE, CUMBRIA
Struggled a bit with my desire to get going this morning. Wanted to leave at 9am but it was closer to 11. Focussed on the positive and acknowledged that any miles we did today were a bonus.
At 3pm we arrived at St Bees, a small, unassuming town with a pretty beach framed by low cliffs. Most notable as the start of Wainwright’s famous Coast-to-Coast walking route to Robin Hoods Bay. It is also the start of Tim Woodcock’s less well known mountain bike tour following roughly the same course and ending at the same destination. This was to be my brother John’s and my mission for the next eight days.
The café on the front was a bit chintzy but served tasty food and had a well-stocked shop. Bought wet wipes, a bivvying essential. After lunch we dipped our feet in the sea on England’s West coast, said farewell to John’s girlfriend, and set-off.
The sun shone all afternoon. The first 10 miles were easy sailing along roads and NCN71, an old railway line. This gave us time to get into the groove and settle our nerves. As the day turned into evening, we left the NCN71 and headed to the Ennerdale valley. The views were simply stunning. As we got closer and closer to the fells the colours were breathtaking. It fell big, wild and present!
We were soon at Ennerdale youth hostel but decided to press on to Black Sail. The track gradually climbed and was quite easy going, but of course we could see the peaks encircling us as we headed further up the valley.
Finally we arrived at Black Sail youth hostel and it was busy. I hadn’t expected that! They also had beer, a dorm bed for me and lots of friendly banter in the common room. Instead of a dorm, John chose to pitch his bivvy and tarp higher up in the valley and wild camp. He joined me for dinner. We had noodles and beer.
And now all the guests are chatting, playing board games and relaxing. There’s a nice convivial vibe. John’s gone to his bed and it is getting very windy outside. I am chilling out and contemplating a shower. It feels like unexpected luxury. Tomorrow’s climb/bike carry out of the valley looks daunting. No supporting Rich and Catherine here. It is all down to me. But for now, let’s celebrate a great first day. John has been lovely and the countryside super.
DAY TWO – 180 MILES TO GO
09:00– SATURDAY 21st – BLACK SAIL YOUTH HOSTEL, ENNERDALE, CUMBRIA
At 5am this morning a massive gust of wind lifted John’s tarp and threw his bike 10m down the valley. It has torn the tarp, punctured his air bed and, most importantly, sheared his rear mech hanger bolt! Fixed first two with gaffer tape and the rear mech is held in place with a cable tie! Let’s hope it holds. John is clearly a bit shaken despite his brave face.
12:00 – SATURDAY 21st – WASDALE HEAD INN, CUMBRIA
This morning we started the day with strapping our bags onto our backs and pushing the bikes up onto Black Sail pass. It was soooo steep with rocky outcrops. It took us nearly two hours to cover 1km (and 300m up). But made it we did (I had some kind Belgians from the hostel carry my bags for the last 100m ascent 😁).
Then it was down the other side and whilst it was still too steep to cycle, at least it was much easier going. As we approached Wasdale we were finally able to ride our bikes before a well-earned pint and lunch at the pub. Knackered and we’ve only down a few km!
21:00 – SATURDAY 21st – BAYS BROWN FARM CAMPSITE, CHAPEL STILE, CUMBRIA
It was a push onto Burnmoor Fell. We missed our turning so frustratingly went up higher than needed. Found a link path and scooted our way over to the right one. Bog, bit of riding, bog, bit of riding, bog. Not having fun.
Descent was tricky. I got frustrated at my inability to ride the rocky stuff. Finished having walked most of the route from Wasdale. Covered in bruises from just manhandling the heavily-ladened bike. Grrrhhh!!! Ice cream in Eskdale to cheer me up from John.
We decided to take a ‘short-cut’ over Hardknott and Wrynose pass. The official Woodcock route takes an extra 10 miles via Harter Fell and the lower slopes of the Old Man of Coniston. We felt this was a ‘frivolous’ detour on Woodcock’s behalf. So took the road instead.
Bloody hell it was hard. Steep, steep and steeper than steep. We rode little, pushed much and stopped often. And to cap it all there was a gruelling head wind, so even the slight downhill between the two passes was a hard slog. Thankfully we had wall-to-wall sunshine, but I was physically broken. Legs ached; arms ached; covered in sweat.
Eventually we made it to the top of Wrynose. Only a swift downhill to the campsite from here. Until we realised it was Little Langdale and not Great Langdale. Not a campsite in sight! Thankfully there was a pub. We got a pint and time to think.
Found ourselves a campsite for the night in Chapel Stile. All good if very knackered especially my arms. John was a trooper, putting up with my need for a campsite or hostel, not content to wild camp. Worried about tomorrow when good weather breaks and we are due thunderstorms.
‘Twas nice getting connectivity tonight and getting the love from family at home.
DAY THREE – 155 MILES TO GO
09:00 – SUNDAY 22nd – BAYS BROWN FARM CAMPSITE, CHAPEL STILE, CUMBRIA
Woken at 1am. John’s airbed had deflated. Valve has broken. He ended up sleeping on the ground with just his bivvy bag and down jacket for warmth. He did not get much sleep.
It is now 9am. We have light rain, turning to heavy rain later. Arghhhh!
13:00 – SUNDAY 22nd – CAFÉ AMBIO, INGS, CUMBRIA
Quick spin and splash down the road into Ambleside, remembering cycling to Hawkshead with Rich, and Catherine in a trailer, five years ago. Straight to the Alpkit shop to buy new bed for John.
What a welcome! “Bring your bikes in”, they said, “do you want coffee and cake?” They listened compassionately to our tales of woe; found John his bed and more camp food; and gave good trail advice. I also took the opportunity whilst sheltered to book a guest house in Shap for the night. John needs a good night’s sleep and I want the assurance of a dry bed at the end of today.
We then bimbled off to a bike shop to find John his mech hanger bolt and whilst we were realising they cannot help us, the Alpkit guy comes running in. We had left our camp food behind and he had tracked us down in the heavy rain to return it. What a star!
The bridleway up and over to Troutbeck wound us through the verdant Skelghyll woods, with slate under tyre and a rare sighting of a red squirrel. From there we took C roads over to Ings and bike shop number two to find the elusive mech hanger bolt.
Dinner tonight was tasty but best of all was the company. Four chaps from Sevenoaks who were hilarious fun and Richard from Vancouver who they had adopted on route. Much wine was quaffed. John was on jovial form and the evening has been most merry. Time now for bed.
DAY FOUR – 125 MILES TO GO
12:30 – MONDAY 23rd – CO-OP, KIRKBY STEPHEN, CUMBRIA
Hearty breakfast to start the day. Lakes now behind us (literally and figuratively). Rain clouds coming over from the West but so far dry.
Back on track with Woodcock route. Cruising lanes and open moorland. Bit of bridleway through farms which were poorly marked and boggy in places. Saw a stoat. Having a ‘deli’ lunch of wraps and cheese from the Co-op in Kirkby Stephen.
And three cheers for northern hospitality. The Co-op manager has just come outside and asked if there was anything we needed. So I got to use the staff toilets. Result!
21:00 – MONDAY 23rd – RUKIN’S CAMPSITE,KELD, N YORKS
Took road option up to the watershed which was a steady grind on quiet lanes, and up to the Tan House Inn pub. A well-deserved pint there before taking the bridleway down into Keld. A few boggy patches here and there but some fun steeper stuff too. Finished descent with John which felt good especially compared to my frustrations from the last major off-road descent from Burnmoor.
Found a campsite home in Keld. New tarp set-up ready for rain tonight and tomorrow morning that allows us to sit inside whilst it is raining out.
I have been a bit snappy with John tonight. I have been trying to get the last four stages sorted in my head that allows for a rainy day tomorrow and a smaller day up onto Urra Moor later in the trip. I need to concentrate. So have taken myself off to the washing-up area to get it clear. All sorted now plus I have done the washing up and had a shower. Time for the bivvy. No connectivity here, so no chance to connect with family. It makes me a bit sad.
DAY FIVE – 95 MILES TO GO
12:00 – TUESDAY 24th – DALES CYCLE CENTRE, GRINTON, N YORKS
Lulled in our slumbers last night by the sound of the rain and the cascades in Keld. Woke to a ‘pregnant’ tarp bulging with collected rainfall. Pushed that off to a satisfying “splosh”.
The morning was a lovely spin down Swaledale on a variety of bridleways: cinder, stony, grassy. We are now in Grinton having a super (souper!) lunch at the Dales Cycle Centre. UCI World Championships on the telly and lots of groups coming in to shelter from the increasing precipitation.
The café provides a warm welcome. Everyone on this trip has been soooo friendly. Struck up a conversation with a punter in the café who spontaneously offers a B&B for tonight. Amazing!
It was spitting outside, now it is properly raining, so we have elected to road it over to Richmond. The Woodcock route takes in a couple of climbs and precipitous drops, but it is not the afternoon for playing around, plus John’s bum is hurting!
22:00 – TUESDAY 24th – WENDY’S HOUSE, RICHMOND, N YORKS
Had a quick spin around Richmond. We deemed it a bit ‘Hebden’. Saw the castle and posted a card home, then found our B&B for the night. Our host, Wendy, has been very accommodating in her white, spotless home of all our wet and dirty gear. We have managed to get some stuff washed and a lift into town for dinner (curry and beer). Clothes are now drying and they should see us through for the last three days adventuring. Three days is that all? Eek, it is almost over!
DAY SIX – 75 MILES TO GO
07:30 – WEDNESDAY 25th – WENDY’S HOUSE, RICHMOND, N YORKS
Over to Chop Gate today to a pub that does camping in their garden. Roads for first two-thirds then off-road for the last ten miles. Whilst it is not raining at the moment (pre-breakfast), it is very misty.
16:00 – WEDNESDAY 25th – THE BUCK INN, CHOP GATE, N YORKS
The weather threatened all day but never really got beyond a little drizzle for twenty minutes. The morning was spent spinning along quiet country lanes then a short stretch on the A684 to Osmotherly. Surprisingly I quite liked Osmotherly. It has a small, remote, oldy-worldy charm that I had not expected given its proximity to the busy A19.
Lunch was had on the ridge above the village; cooked on our stove and washed down with rum from the hip flask. Great views out to the coast, although we could not quite see the sea. We had picked a popular spot for walkers and there was plenty of banter with those who came by.
The afternoon’s riding was good fun. Off-road for the most part with fast downhills. There was one push uphill but that did not dominate the ride.
Arrived at Chop Gate 3pm. Pub closed but Wolfgang, the German-Oz-UK landlord, spotted us and let us in round the back. One of the holiday chalets is available and we have taken that. More rain is forecast, so a solid roof is a bonus. Dinner was a rehydrated spag bol in our room followed by cheesecake-bakewell tart-custard mash-up in the pub. Delicious!
DAY SEVEN – 45 MILES TO GO
13:00 – THURSDAY 26th – ABOVE WESTERDALE, N YORKS
I had been stressing about today since we left the Lakes. The Woodcock notes advise there is another bike carry onto Urra Moor. So anticipating another physical endurance test like Black Sail Pass, I had steeled myself for the day ahead. However it never happened. Note to self: never base expectations on written accounts of routes (readers of this blog also take heed)!! Sure it was a push, but not a carry, and soon we were whizzing along double-track across the moor.
Great wide open views in all directions. The tops are covered in heather, and down in the valleys we can see green grass and trees. There are lots of grouse today whereas yesterday was more pheasants; no doubt to provide the local shoots with a variety of targets.
The weather has been kind: blue skies to start, then clouds. We have just had a shower and more grey clouds are lurking but overall very pleasant as we sit here overlooking Westerdale, boiling up water for lunch and supping on rum.
16:00 – THURSDAY 26th – THE ARNCLIFFE ARMS, GLAISDALE, N YORKS
The afternoon saw us dipping in and out of Westerdale by road and then a quick, fun spin down Glaisdale Rigg. Could have wished for something a bit more technical and engaging though instead of double track. I know there are plenty of good mountain bike trails in the area.
We have talked about carrying on to Grosmont this afternoon but after two pints of ‘Flying Circus’, we have decided that this pub in Glaisdale is just the ticket. Lots of silly banter with ‘Balderick Junior’ the barman and a clutch of Canadian women walking the coast-to-coast. Plus there is music from the nineties playing on the jukebox. Cue dreadful singing!
DAY EIGHT – 25 MILES TO GO
13:00 – FRIDAY 27th – BRAMBLEWICK FISH & GRILL, ROBIN HOODS BAY, N YORKS
We have made it!!!!
After an early start (just after 8am) we picked our way over to Grosmont and then ground up the ridiculously steep hill that is the ‘Gross’ ‘Mount’ and out of the valley. The bridleway over the tops was horrendous. Chewed up by 4x4s and making the going far tougher than it looked. But bit by bit we crossed it and were soon having fun wriggling down a clay-rock chute to farmland bridleways and back onto roads. After another little section of bridleway we were zooming down NCN1 to the sea and then down into Robin Hoods Bay. And here you find us. Very happy to have reached our goal. What an achievement!! We dipped our toes, hands, bikes in the sea. Took photos and are now celebrating with a bouillabaisse lunch and a glass of sauvignon blanc. Cheers!!
And what a trip! From the high fells and extreme adventures of the Lakes, to the wonderful unfolding of the countryside into the Dales and North Yorkshire Moors. It has been an endurance challenge, an exercise in mindfulness and a heart-warming celebration of human kindness.
Despite having been a mountain biker for well over twenty years, I really was not sure if I would be able to cope with the physical toughness of this trip. Especially as work and family commitments mean I only ride about 40-50 miles per week and most of that is on road. Looking back I would say that as long as you pace yourself in the Lakes, the miles beyond Shap are relatively easy going. John and I both found we got fitter as the week progressed. Our speed, strength, balance and reflexes all improved after only a few days on the bike.
It is easy to get obsessed about getting to the end of each day’s cycling, or to worry about what the next day has in store. John and I regularly talked about this and made a conscious effort to enjoy the here and now. It was great cycling with someone who knows you very well and with whom you do not put on many pretences. This made it easier to be ourselves and not worry about what the other person thought of you. But this trip has re-emphasised that it is important to be happy in one’s self and enjoy what is happening right now. The journey will come to an end all too soon.
And for those times when things did not go to plan, we were bowled over by the generosity of the great people we met on route. My humble thanks to: The Belgians who carried my packs up Black Sail Pass; Issac and his Dad at Chapel Stile campsite who brought us back to familial normality after the most gruelling day on the bike I have ever had; The Alpkit team in Ambleside for accepting us in our muddy, weary state and feeding us cake; The hosts at New Ing Guest House for having a room that they never pre-book so that they can offer it to people like us; The Co-op manager who asked if she could help and let me use the loo; Jacqueline in the Dales Cycle Centre whose empathy led her to instinctively offer a bed for the night; and to the countless people we met on the trails with whom we struck up conversation and who wished us well on our journey.
It has been great to share it with my brother and take the mickey out of his impending fifty years milestone. We had our highs and lows along the way, but in supporting each other we have re-connected in a really profound way which will see us through for the next half century.
And best of all was to learn how England fits together from one coast to the other with all the hills, valleys, and now memories, in between.
USEFUL INFO
- The Coast-to-Coast Mountain Bike Route Pack (Mountain bike route companion packs) by Tim Woodcock – Our route and guide book.
- There are numerous videos and downloadable routes for Woodcock’s coast-to-coast available on-line.
- There are so many options for accommodation on the coast-to-coast route that you can take your pick from a quick internet search. That said, we did find a lot of places were fully booked, so either reserve in advance or be prepared to do some ringing around.
- Alpkit.com – Most awesome store for bike-packing and other outdoor adventures.
- Kit list:
- Full suspension mountain-bike with front Kanga harness & rear Exo-rail
- Helmet, gloves, shoes, glasses, water bottle
- 20l dry bag with loops containing:
o Sleeping bag & bivvi bag
o Mug, spork & hip flask
o ‘Washbag’: toothbrush, paste, soap, deo, tick spray, Ibuprofen, sun cream
o Phone charger & battery
o Maps
o Waterproof jacket
o Wet wipes - Big Papa seat pack containing:
o Down mattress
o Tool kit: pump, slugs, shock pump, inner tube, brake pads, rear mech hangar, gaffer tape, cable ties
o Bike lock
o Clothes: 3 shorts, leg warmers, jersey, 2 tops, bra, 2 socks, 2 buffs, down gilet - Small day rucksack containing:
o Bike lights & head torch
o Compass
o Food – we liked: Expedition Foods, Firepot & Torq Explore flapjacks. - Tri-bag containing:
o Phone
o Pad & paper - In addition to the above, John also carried:
o Tarp
o Stove & fuel
o First aid kit
o All sorts of other gubbins!
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